Customizing Your Transformers Transformable Action-Figures:
WATER MARKING
Panel lines are designed to add realism and detail to the exterior of the Transformers toy. Only attempt to do the panel lines once the paint has dried completely. Pre-shade all the panel lines first (this is done before you apply the colour scheme) as this will add depth and a more realistic look on your airplane model.
You will need to acquire Varsol (which can be purchased at any local hardware store) and some artist oils. A really good alternative is a lighter fluid. Most toy customizers or modellers use raw umber and iron oxide black. These colours can be mixed or used individually. You will have to mix the artist oil with 90% lighter fluid to obtain a very thin paint. This allows it to flow into panel lines, joins and corners. Load a brush with the wash and just wet down the entire part of the airplane model that you want to enhance. You will find that the wash will accumulate in the corners and around protruding details as it moves away from flat surfaces. When dry, the illusion of shadows is perfect. But don’t let the wash assemble in thick puds, or you may risk covering up the underlying paintwork.
After doing the wash or wetting of corners, have a cotton with lighter fluid ready at hand. You can lighty wipe the excess dark paint to further bring out the details.
Don’t get frustrated if it doesn’t work the first time, I had to attempt this many times before I could do it correctly. If some of the thin wash should happen to run outside the panel lines, wait until the wash is almost dry. Then, using a slightly moist rag, or moist Q-tip, wipe away the excess wash. Make sure that you wipe in the direction from the nose of the airplane model, towards the end to attain a very neat and subtle ‘worn’ look.
STEPS:
  
Step 1: Make sure the paint (if you have painted the toy before hand) is completely dry. Make sure the toy is clean as well, especially at the panel lines and deep engravings layer.
Step 2: Prepare a very loose mixture of oil paint and lighter fluid – 80 to 90% fluid and 10 percent oil paint. You can choose burnt amber or black or a mixture of both (which tends to be realistic).
Step 3: Apply to areas with panel lines and deep etching. Don’t worry if the create such a mess at first. Just make sure all areas are covered.
Step 4: Wipe off excess oil pint with cotton doused in lighter fluid. Clean all surface area so that what remains black are the panel lines and deep etches. Use cotton buds to reach small – narrow areas. Do so until you have achieve the right amount of shadow and clean surface that you desire.
Step 5: You can apply – repair already done dry brushing highlights. Jus repeat the Dry BRUSHING steps.
BATTLE DAMAGES TECHNIQUES
Using a Soldering gun to melt-in damages
Burning small holes with a standard soldering gun can create the bullet or laser damage battle scars. Just apply dry brush – water marking – dry brush technique to make it realistic.
You can melt in long lines on your surface with the soldering gun as well to produce metal tears.
If you have an air brush, spray a light circular area around the “battle damages” to emulate smoke marks.
Bending flat edges to create bended metal look
In flat edges such as wheel covers or track armour on tanks, simply get a pair of fliers and bend a little (make sure to crack or break it) Access the flexibility of the material first. IT IS NOT ADVISABLE TO DO THIS ON CLEAR –TRANSPARENT PLASTIC. These are brittle and could damage your toy.
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